You say saguaro, I say sahuaro

 

 

You say saguaro, I say sahuaro…have you ever noticed the two spellings of this majestic cactus? Have you ever wondered which one is correct? Do you struggle with pronouncing the word?

Let help you with the pronunciation first. No matter how it’s spelled, the pronunciation is the same. It’s “suh-wah-roh.” NOT “sa-guar-o.” Ignore the “g.” When saguaro is spelled with a g, the g is pronounced as though it is an h.

So which spelling is correct? Actually, both spellings are correct. However, I believe sahuaro with an “h” is more accurate. My belief is based on a University of Arizona course, “The Ecology of the Southwest,” that was part of my curriculum, led by Dr. Charles Lowe, a professor of ecology and evolutionary biology.

According to Dr. Lowe, saguaro is an anglicized version of sahuaro. He explained that people often assume saguaro is of Spanish origin, which is why the g is pronounced like an h. But this is incorrect. The word is actually from a Native American language. True, the Saguaro National Monument uses the g spelling, but the town of Sahuarita, Arizona (which translates to “Little Sahuaro,”) and Sahuarita High School in Tucson, have used that spelling since their inception. Regardless, Dr. Lowe insisted that because the word origin is Native American and not Spanish, the spelling of sahuaro with an “h” is the proper spelling. I agree!

I’ll close with some important sahuaro facts:

·         The sahuaro is only found in the Sonoran Desert.

·         The tallest sahuaro on record is 78’.

·         It is cold hardy to 18 degrees.

·         It takes 50 years or more to grow an arm.

·         It takes 30 years (from seed) for a sahuaro to reach 3’.

·         They live up to 200 years.

·         An 8’ tall sahuaro can weigh up to 1200 lbs.

·         Plants over 6’ tall rarely survive transplanting. The tricky part is that it can take them 8 to 10 years to die—meaning if you buy a very tall specimen you will not know if it survived the transplanting process for a very long time.

·         This plant is protected by Arizona’s Native Plant Law. It is illegal to move a sahuaro from one location to another without a permit. (You do not need a permit if the sahuaro is being moved to a new location on the same property.)

·         Intentionally damaging or harming a sahuaro is a Class 4 Felony.

 

The showy Bird of Paradise species...which one is right for your yard?

For summer color and attracting hummingbirds, the Caesalpinia species are an option. While none of these plants are native to Arizona, they are low water use. Which one is the best? It depends on what you are looking for. Low maintenance might be a priority; or maybe you prefer a plant that's not winter dormant. So how do you choose?

First of all, do not rely on a common name. They can be very misleading. One plant can have many common names. If you want the correct plant,  you must rely on the Latin name. Using a plant's Latin name is the only way to be sure you are buying the plant you want. 

 Here's an overview of your choices:

Caesalpinia pulcherrima (RED BIRD OF PARADISE)

The Red Bird of Paradise is native to Mexico and the West Indies. It matures to about 6' tall and wide. However, since it is frost tender, it will freeze to the ground when temperatures go down to 30 degrees or colder. Once it freezes back, you will need to cut the plant to the ground. It will recover quickly once warm weather arrives. 

The Red Bird is considered a low water use plant, surviving on weekly irrigation in the hottest part of the summer. Once established it may live on less, but if you want lots of flowers you will need to water it more. 

Advantages: Colorful, showy red and orange flowers attract hummingbirds.

Disadvantages: Thorny, frost tender, and can become a pest. It will reseed everywhere if it is happy, and is difficult to remove.

Red Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherimma)

 

Casesalpinia mexicana MEXICAN BIRD OF PARADISE

 The Mexican Bird of Paradise is native to Mexico. This variety reaches tree size, maturing at about 10' tall and 8' wide. The flowers are yellow. It is cold hardy to about 15 degrees, and considered mostly evergreen. Unlike the Red Bird, it has no thorns.

The Mexican Bird of Paradise is also a low water use plant, but will do better with supplemental irrigation during the hottest part of the summer.

Advantages: Thornless, evergreen, attracts hummingbirds, requires little pruning. 

Disadvantages: The seed pods are messy, and "explode" when they are ripe, scattering seeds everywhere. It does not seem to propagate itself as readily as the Red Bird, though.

Mexican Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia mexicana)

Caesalpinia gilliesii YELLOW BIRD OF PARADISE

The Yellow Bird of Paradise is also not a native, as it originates from Argentina. It has naturalized here, however, making itself at home without becoming an invasive pest. This species matures at 6' tall by 5' wide, and is deciduous. While it will lose its leaves in cold weather, it does not freeze to the ground. Therefore, maintenance is minimal. It has the same water requirements as the other two varieties, but may survive on rainfall once established.

Advantages: Showy yellow flowers with red stamens attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Thornless. Very low maintenance.

Disadvantages: Winter deciduous. 

Yellow Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia gilliesii)

While we're on the topic of plants named Bird of Paradise, there's at least one more you may see in warmer parts of Arizona, or where there is significant frost protection. 

The African Bird of Paradise hales from South Africa. Not a desert plant by any means, it is damaged at 28 degrees, and killed at 20. It prefers rich soil, ample moisture, and heavy feeding. Some plant parts are believed to be poisonous.

African Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae)

 

Choosing the right planting container

 

 

Container planting is a great way to add interest to special areas such as your front entry or an intimate patio. Keep in mind, however, that not all planting containers are created equal. In the desert southwest, the best pots are the ones that don’t get too hot for plant roots, and that can take winter freezes without falling apart.

Plastic pots, including the new heavy duty composite versions that look like clay, last a long time, but they do have their drawbacks. When sitting in full sun, they get very hot, often to the point that the side of the pot that gets the most sun will prevent roots from growing there. In addition, while it is good they don’t dry out as fast, they also tend to hold too much moisture. Therefore it is important to always check the soil moisture level before adding more water. If you are currently determining if a container plant needs more water by touching the surface of the soil, this is a mistake, especially for large containers. If the soil is wet just a few inches below and you add more water, you can easily suffocate the roots with oversaturation. A gadget called a moisture meter (about $5-$8 in home improvement stores) is a worthwhile investment. The gauge tells you if the soil is dry or wet to a depth of six to eight inches (the length of the probe), not just at surface level.

Avoid buying pottery from Mexico, as although it is inexpensive, it is not worth the low price since they will disintegrate quickly. This type of pottery is fired at a low temperature. Low fired clay absorbs moisture inside and out, crumbling into nothing after just a few freeze/thaw experiences. Coating the inside with waterproofing material does not make any difference, as the exterior will still absorb rain and expand with heating and cooling.

High-fired Italian clay, glazed pottery and concrete planters are good choices, but each have features to consider before purchasing.

Italian clay is high-fired, making it quite durable. It is also known as Terra Cotta. These pots dry out quicker, so will need more water during the hot summer. However they breathe well, allowing roots to get the oxygen they need.

Glazed pots are coated with melted glass, which requires high firing temperatures. This is a wonderful way to add color to your landscaping no matter what you plant in them. They are pricey, but worth it. They will last a very long time. The options are wide, and what works best depends on your intent. While the ones with patterns and decorations are lovely, solid colors draw attention to the plant, not the pot. However, they do not breathe because of the glaze, so be careful not to over-water.

Concrete planter options are best for large plants. They are very expensive and require special delivery and equipment to set up…so make sure you know exactly where you want them because moving them around is not easy! Phoenix Precast Concrete is the only company I’ve found with a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. They do breathe somewhat, but also be careful not to over-water.

Planting in containers gives you so many options. Depending on the type and size, they can serve as focal points and entry statements. They can also make gardening easier, allowing you to move them around for proper sun exposure, and reach without bending and stooping. Planting containers can be higher maintenance in the sense that you will need to water more often and occasionally change the potting soil, but for many the convenience and joy they bring exceeds the maintenance.