Planning a new garden: location, location, location!

So you want to start a garden. Congratulations!

First up, you’ll need to consider orientation, soil type and physical location. Preferably you want an area that is not too rocky and relatively flat. It should be near the house, but not too close as the garden is not always picturesque and can be odorous if you are using steer manure. You DO want it near enough that it is convenient to bring produce into the kitchen. The garden will need at least 6 hours of sunshine per day and afternoon shade, whether you take advantage of a tree or building, or are planning on putting up shade cloth.

The next consideration is size. If you are limited for space, make it as large as you possibly can as you will want to be able to rotate your crops; especially tomatoes and peppers, which are susceptible to multiple diseases and should not be planted in the same place for at least 3 years. 

Raised beds are an option if your soil is just too rocky, or if caliche is a problem in your area. Keep in mind several things. Raised beds dry out quicker so you will be watering more often, you will have to import top soil to fill them (and make sure it really is top soil as otherwise you will end up with excavated soil that has no nutritional value), you will have to be careful about using treated lumber for the edges as it contains arsenic. Concrete blocks will leach lime into the bed, and plants don’t like that either. You will also probably end up turning the soil by hand, as it is difficult to rototill inside a raised bed. My preference is to just work with what you have, but there are cases where raised beds are the only option.

The garden will need to be fenced against rodents and snakes, and if you are in a very rural area also javalina and deer. Even if you have a fence or wall, keep in mind that ground squirrels can climb walls and ground squirrels, rabbits and javalina will dig under fences to get after your garden bounty. Some snakes can climb fences and walls, so they need to be tall enough to discourage this. Snakes can slip through a 1” opening, so you will need to secure the gate openings as well.

If you live in an area where rabbits, ground squirrels and snakes have the potential for being a problem, you will need to erect a fence at least 4’ tall. Use fence with 2” x 4” openings, and add 3’ tall ¼” hardware cloth or ½” chicken wire to the fence, burying at least 12” underground, and bending at least a few inches of the bottom into an L shape, to deter rodents from digging under. If javalina are a potential problem, you will need to reinforce the bottom of the fence with barbed wire. If deer could be a problem, your fence will need to be 8’ tall.

Also keep in mind where you will be storing composting materials. If you plan on obtaining large quantities of animal manure or storing straw and other composting supplies, you will need a place where a vehicle can access, and close enough to the garden so you aren’t making tons of wheelbarrow trips. You also don’t want it to offend the neighbors, so try to keep it out of sight, if possible.

Planning a new garden: location, location, location!

So you want to start a garden. Congratulations!

First up, you’ll need to consider orientation, soil type and physical location. Preferably you want an area that is not too rocky and relatively flat. It should be near the house, but not too close as the garden is not always picturesque and can be odorous if you are using steer manure. You DO want it near enough that it is convenient to bring produce into the kitchen. The garden will need at least 6 hours of sunshine per day and afternoon shade, whether you take advantage of a tree or building, or are planning on putting up shade cloth.

The next consideration is size. If you are limited for space, make it as large as you possibly can as you will want to be able to rotate your crops; especially tomatoes and peppers, which are susceptible to multiple diseases and should not be planted in the same place for at least 3 years. 

Raised beds are an option if your soil is just too rocky, or if caliche is a problem in your area. Keep in mind several things. Raised beds dry out quicker so you will be watering more often, you will have to import top soil to fill them (and make sure it really is top soil as otherwise you will end up with excavated soil that has no nutritional value), you will have to be careful about using treated lumber for the edges as it contains arsenic. Concrete blocks will leach lime into the bed, and plants don’t like that either. You will also probably end up turning the soil by hand, as it is difficult to rototill inside a raised bed. My preference is to just work with what you have, but there are cases where raised beds are the only option.

The garden will need to be fenced against rodents and snakes, and if you are in a very rural area also javalina and deer. Even if you have a fence or wall, keep in mind that ground squirrels can climb walls and ground squirrels, rabbits and javalina will dig under fences to get after your garden bounty. Some snakes can climb fences and walls, so they need to be tall enough to discourage this. Snakes can slip through a 1” opening, so you will need to secure the gate openings as well.

If you live in an area where rabbits, ground squirrels and snakes have the potential for being a problem, you will need to erect a fence at least 4’ tall. Use fence with 2” x 4” openings, and add 3’ tall ¼” hardware cloth or ½” chicken wire to the fence, burying at least 12” underground, and bending at least a few inches of the bottom into an L shape, to deter rodents from digging under. If javalina are a potential problem, you will need to reinforce the bottom of the fence with barbed wire. If deer could be a problem, your fence will need to be 8’ tall.

Also keep in mind where you will be storing composting materials. If you plan on obtaining large quantities of animal manure or storing straw and other composting supplies, you will need a place where a vehicle can access, and close enough to the garden so you aren’t making tons of wheelbarrow trips. You also don’t want it to offend the neighbors, so try to keep it out of sight, if possible.

Critter proofing your garden

My critter proof fence.

There is nothing worse than spending a lot of time and energy into preparing your garden soil, planting seeds and seedlings, and nurturing everything so you will have a good harvest only to have ground squirrels wreck havoc.

Birds are easier to deal with, since bird netting will keep most of them at bay. Fencing keeps out most animals like skunks and rabbits, especially if you bury the fence 8 to 12 inches so they can’t dig under. But ground squirrels, as cute as they are, are far more industrious and determined that most other problem critters.

Poisoning wildlife serves no real purpose other than upsetting the balance of nature. If you rely on poison you risk poisoning predators such as hawks, owls, coyotes and bobcats as well as the squirrels, and will spend a fortune. Squirrels are very prolific because they are darned low on the food chain.

There are also many repellents on the market touted to keep animals away from your plants. Some gardeners swear by pepper spray, Lifebuoy soap, certain aromatic plants, and mothballs, to name a few. However, my experience has been that nothing works other than a physical barrier. I’ve seen rabbits eat plants coated with cayenne pepper, so the fact is, you can’t rely on these products.

If you are just starting a garden and know ground squirrels live in your area, build a defense system early since once they figure out you have goodies planted, they try harder to get in. It does not matter how tiny the openings are in your fence, ground squirrels are not only adept at digging under fences, they also climb over fences. A 4 foot tall fence is nothing to these acrobats.

A non-climbable fence is a more expensive option than any wire fence, including chain link. What is considered non-climbable? Think something slick, such as corrugated metal or sheet metal. Yes, it will look ugly. But yes, it will work. You will need sturdy posts set in concrete, however, so it does not blow over in high winds.

Another option is to cut metal and attach to your existing fence, provided the openings on your metal fencing are no larger than ½ inch squares. The non-climbable portion should be placed at the top of the fence since they most likely will not be able to leap over the entire 4 feet.

Your fencing not only needs burying, but it should be in a L shape so they cannot dig under. An alternative is to lay 2 foot tall hardware cloth on the ground all the way around your fence, securing with U-pins or rocks.

Check your fencing regularly, since they are looking for weak spots every single day.

Sound like a lot of work? Yes it is. But having home-grown produce is worth every minute of it.

The basics of building good garden soil

My simple worm bin

Although it seems like desert soils would not be suitable for vegetable gardening, the reality is all they lack is water to be productive. However, to make these soils more water efficient, and to replenish nutrients used in growing plants, amendments are necessary for all types of desert soils. I will only be discussing organic methods in this section.

Sandy soils are the most challenging and ‘needy’ when it comes to amendments.  The addition of organic matter is necessary to help these soils maintain a moisture level conducive to growing healthy plants. 

Clay soils hold moisture far better than sandy soils, but if the clay is very heavy it can hold too much water and can cause root rot and other problems. The addition of organic matter in this case is to provide better drainage and aeration of the soil, both essential to healthy plant growth.

The best types of amendments come from animal sources. Although chicken manure, bat guano, fish emulsions provide nitrogen to feed plants, they do not contain other essential nutrients (such as potassium, potash, calcium and carbon to name a few) which is depleted from the soil after every growing season. The goal is not just to feed the garden soil, but to create a soil structure which supports healthy plants, reduces the amount of water needed, increases beneficial soil microbes, attracts beneficial insects and soil building organisms such as earthworms. The best way to tell if your garden soil is being tended to properly is the appearance of earthworms. You can’t just add them to your garden and hope they will multiply. In most areas of the country, “if you build it, they will come.” However, I’ve been informed by the University of Arizona this is rarely the case in the desert as earthworms are not endemic here. So what’s a gardener to do? Make an earthworm bin and use their castings. It’s much easier to maintain a stable environment in a bin than it is in your garden.

Adding animal manures such as from steer or horses also provides organic matter that helps sandy soil hold moisture and improves drainage in clay soil, providing low levels of nitrogen to feed the plants. Never add clay soil to sandy soil. This makes cement, which is certainly not the goal here! Also important is adding straw. Although straw does require nitrogen to break down, adding it along with the manure several months before planting will start the decomposition process and also allow the manure to ‘age’ before planting. This is important as some manures contain high levels of salt (from feed) that needs to be leached out prior to planting to avoid burning new plants. I purchase both steam sterilized steer manure and straw way ahead of my needs, and allow it sit for at least 6 months or longer before using. Horse manure can contain weed seeds and sometimes Bermuda grass (which you definitely don’t want in your garden), so be careful of using unless you have the time to sterilize it yourself, by placing heavy weight clear plastic over a pile and letting it cook in the hot summer sun for a few months. This will kill off most seeds.

Of course, don’t forget compost. If you aren’t composting and you want a garden, you need to start. Compost bins can make life easier, but are not necessary. I’ve always composted directly in my garden, as turning piles and keeping them moist is just too much work. I bury kitchen scraps (vegetable and fruit trimmings, egg shells (in moderation), and other plant matter (no meat, dairy or fish) in between rows. That’s it! Nature will take its course.

Those pesky and destructive whiteflies: what's a gardener to do?

If you see a cloud of white insects flying around your vegetable garden, unfortunately this means you have the dreaded whitefly. They are especially attracted to lettuce, and are a huge problem for Arizona lettuce growers in the winter. They also attack tomatoes, peppers, cabbage and the foliage of carrots, and have a liking to herbs like parsley as well. They are a sucking insect, and can kill the plant within a short amount of time. Since they love dry, dusty conditions, the desert is a perfect climate.

They are dreaded because they multiple incredibly fast and are very difficult to control naturally. Although some experts recommend using beneficial insects for a natural control, this method is not particularly successful in the desert environment because conditions are just not that favorable for many beneficial insects to stick around and do any good. You can try sticky traps, which need replacing as they fill up with insects. Barriers such as floating row covers work, provided you get them on before the whitefly sets eggs on your plants, but this does not work once temperatures rise into the mid to upper 80’s because it just plain gets too hot under there.

Since whiteflies love dry, dusty conditions, your best bet is to hose off plants often. If you have one plant they particularly like, it may be worth it to sacrifice that one plant to reduce infestation of the others.

Never heard of Biochar? Time's a-wasting!

Biochar boosts your compost

If you have not yet heard of Biochar, you will in the near future. Biochar is a soil amendment with the properties unlike any other. Used in agriculture for over 3000 years, Biochar is a component of the incredibly fertile soils of the Amazon. These soils, called terra-preta, is why the Amazon jungle is unlike anyplace else on earth.

So what can Biochar do for your garden? Biochar improves nutrient retention of soil, decreasing the need for additional amendments. Its ability to hold carbon in the soil has been proven in research. While Biochar won’t make poor soil perfect, it will enhance the effectiveness and longevity of compost.

Biochar is now commercially available, but if you are a do-it-yourselfer, you can make Biochar at home. Online resources cover many ways to create your own Biochar, but if you decide to buy instead, keep in mind that although it’s expensive, it lasts a very long time in your garden. Here's one article that teaches you how to make your own. Making Biochar to Improve Soil (Mother Earth News).

Seed starting 101

My garden in early spring

Growing your own plants for your garden has several advantages. 

1. There is a wider selection of varieties including using organic seeds, hybrids that are best for your area, and heirlooms.

2. If you are planning a large garden, it is much less expensive to start from scratch.

3. You don’t have to worry about a nursery having the plants you want when you want them.

4. By putting the seedlings in a cold frame for several weeks before planting in the ground, you will have large healthy plants that do not need to be acclimated to full sun when you set them out in the garden.

You will need a south facing window, which will provide adequate sunlight to grow seedlings up to their first set of true leaves.  For my area, I start my seeds in early February for garden planting the first week of April. 

I use rubber warming mat (specifically designed for seeds) to keep seeds at a warm 85 degrees, and a seed starting plug system which has worked well for me for many years.  The plugs are made of sterile peat moss, and set in Styrofoam ‘cells’, which keep seeds moist at just the right level so they germinate without worry of damping off disease. 

Make sure you mist the seeds daily or more often as needed with warm water a 1 or 2 drops of liquid fertilizer per gallon.

Once the seeds have germinated and formed their true first leaves (the second set that forms), and have well established roots, you will need to boost them up to a larger container (a 12 oz Styrofoam cup with a hole poked in the bottom works well and lasts for many, many years) filled with regular potting soil.  From here they go into a cold frame until it’s time to plant. 

If you used a purchased cold frame, the most important thing to remember is that it cannot have glass for a lid.  The intense southwest sun will fry your tender seedlings in hours.  I use a piece of heavy floating row cover, which provides sun, but does not build up heat as glass does.

Do you need a cold frame? Maybe. Here's how to build one.

Nothing beats a homegrown tomato!

A cold frame is like a mini-greenhouse, essential if you intend to start plants from seed for a medium to large garden. Starting your own tomato seedlings allows you to grow larger and sturdier plants, ready to set out in the spring, for a lot less than it would cost to buy them ready to plant. This method also gives you greater flexibility with varieties you can’t find at the plant nursery. Planting heat tolerant tomato varieties is the key to tomato success in the desert southwest.

If you are handy with a circular saw, and like building things yourself, you can make a simple, functional cold frame starting with an old aluminum window.

Cold frames in cool climates have glass in the lid to keep seedlings warm.  In the desert southwest, that would be fatal as the heat buildup will kill the plants in one sunny afternoon. I use heavy weight “row cover” (aka Reemay cloth or season extender) material instead, and use giant binder clips to secure a piece over the window frame. 

The main concern for the plants inside is making sure they get plenty of sun during the day (but not intensified through glass), proper ventilation, and keeping them warm at night. To achieve this easily, you will need a greenhouse window opener, which automatically opens and closes the lid if it gets too warm inside, or too cold outside. They are not terribly expensive, and work great.  You will also need a mechanics drop light with a 75 watt bulb to hang inside to keep the plants warm at night. Use a timer to have the light come on from at least 10 p.m. to 8 a.m.. Keeping the seedlings warm, even it there aren’t freezing temperatures predicted, will make them grow strong and sturdy. If it is going to be exceptionally cold, I throw a blanket over the unit.

The size of your cold frame depends on how many seedlings you plan on having in there at one time. My unit holds more than 70 plants and measures 47” x 41” (the size of the old window I used). I made mine 2’ tall at the back, sloping to 8” in the front.  Make sure to add corner supports using 2 x 4’s.  You don’t need a bottom; just set it on the ground.

You will need hinges at the back so you can open the top and place seedlings inside. It helps to have a prop to hold the lid open while you are setting them inside or watering them—a piece of PVC pipe works well. Plants will need water every day, up to 2 times a day, depending on how warm it is outside.

You will want to face the cold frame to the south, where it will receive full sun all day. It may sound like a lot, but since you are setting them out in March, the days are not yet that long and you want all the sun you can get to grow strong plants.

Seed starting for tomatoes, peppers and eggplants should take place about 8 weeks before you intent to plant. (Stay tuned for article on how to start seeds.) After the average last frost date (April 1^st for Tucson, April 7^th for elevations 1000 feet higher), you can set out your new plants. I suggest you wait, even it the temps are mild. There is nothing worse then losing all of your hard work by a freak late spring storm.

It's fall planting time! Get your winter crops in the ground now

Mesquites provide just the right amount of filtered shade for herbs.

Fall is the best time to plant cool weather crops, including some herbs. Plan your fall garden like you would your spring garden; rotate crops and leave some empty spaces to give the soil a rest.

Garden Clean-up

If you had a spring garden, start cleaning up what isn’t doing well. Summer squash and melons are usually done by now, so unless you still have fruits on the vines, pull them out. Remove any dead, diseased or dying plants of any kind, too.

It is best not to compost plants from your garden, as in order to kill off insect eggs and diseases, your compost pile needs to reach temperatures above 200 degrees. It is not worth risking re-infecting your garden.

It is a good idea to add additional compost to your garden. Just keep in mind not to till too often, as you may end up killing all your beloved earthworms you worked so hard to bring in.

Seedlings for Fall Planting

Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage work best this time of year when planted as seedlings. If your garden area is in full sun, they will appreciate some filtered shade to acclimate them to their new environment. Swiss chard, lettuce, kale and other greens can be purchase as seedlings, too, or you can plant seeds directly in the ground.

Vegetable Seeds for Fall Planting

Root crops like beets and carrots do not do well as transplants, so use seeds instead. Try different colored varieties like golden beets or purple carrots. Seeds of Change Beet Chioggia is also interesting, with a red and white striped interior. Other seeds to plant:

• Sugar snap peas- If you choose a bush sugar snap pea variety, you will not need to worry about installing a trellis. I usually wait until November or December to plant these.

• Lettuce-Slow bolt varieties like red oak and black-seeded simpson will ensure a longer crop.

• Kale-All kales do quite well. Even ornamental kale is edible.

• Swiss chard-Pick one with ruby red stems for more color.

Herbs to Plant in the Fall

• Parsley –Seeds of Change Parsley Italian Flatleaf or Parsley Forest Green are two organic options. Both are perennials and will continue to bring you fresh parsley for a year or two.

• Cilantro-Seeds of Change Cilantro Slow-Bolt ensures you will get the most out of your cilantro plants before they go to seed. Don’t forget to harvest the seeds; which are known as coriander.

• Chives- Plant Seeds of Change Chive Garden for snipping onion flavored stems to garnish your favorite recipes.

The best part about a fall garden is you don’t have to water as often, and there are few pests to contend with. Planting now means crops through early spring, and lots of fresh vegetables and herbs for your winter soup recipes.

Other vegetables for your desert garden

GROWING OTHER VEGETABLES

Sweet pepper ripen to several different colors

BEETS

Beets like cool weather, so plant seeds in late September. Standard red beets do fine, as do golden varieties. I like the golden beets because they don’t stain like red ones do.

BROCCOLI, CAULFLOWER AND CABBAGE

Starting these cruciferous vegetables from seed does work, but can be a bit challenging to start indoors in mid summer as there is usually not enough sun coming in a window to get them off to a good start and not too leggy.  I have had some success, but finally resorted to planting seeds in August, and keeping them shady until established.  Transplants work well too, but don’t set them out until September.  Provide shade so they can become acclimated as the sun is still pretty brutal.

Cabbage lopers are the main troublesome pest, so you will need to spray them with Bt (see Article 8; Biological Insect Controls) or hand pick.  They can decimate the leaves very quickly, so start spraying long before you see any signs of chewed leaves.

Harvest broccoli when the head is full and you just start to see a few yellow flowers.  This means it is as large as it will get.  Don’t let them go past that point, however, as they become bitter and tough.  Also, don’t pull the plant when you have harvested the main stalk, as they will continue to produce side shoots for months.

Harvest cauliflower before the head starts to open up.  You can tie the leaves over the head to keep it whiter, if desired.  Once harvested, the plant will not form another head, so you can remove the entire plant.

Cabbage should be picked while still compact and the leaves are tight.  Keep an eye out for cabbage lopers as they will work inside the leaves and eat the plant from the inside out. 

All of these only need to be protected from really hard frosts (into the teens).  Covering them with heavy duty polyester row covers will allow them to grow but keep them from freezing.  Remove the row covers if it starts to get too warm (over 85).  These plants prefer cooler weather.

CARROTS

Carrots like cool weather. Plant the seeds in late September. If the winter is too warm, they aren’t very sweet. Don’t expect to grow really long carrots here like you see in the store. Short varieties (like Nantes) are a good choice.

CORN

Corn is a summer crop. Growing corn is quite tricky and it requires a ton of attention.  Plant it in full sun after all danger of frost has passed, and in several rows.  Corn needs to cross-pollinate so a group of plants is much better than one long row.  Unless you are willing to hand pollinate (shaking the tassles over the silks), you will probably struggle getting ears to fill out.  Corn ear worms will drill holes in the tops and through the bottom, so you need to put mineral oil on the silk end weekly and use Bt for the exterior invasion. It also takes a lot more water than most crops.  However, if you are successful, you will have the best tasting corn ever.

CUCUMBERS

Cucumbers are a summer crop. Most standard cucumbers do not do well in the desert. The Armenian cucumber takes the heat very well, and produces long, crunchy fruits that do not need peeling. Keep an eye on them though, as they can grow several feet long if you let them.

Cucumber beetles can be a problem, and are difficult to control. I carry a bucket of soapy water around and shake the bugs off into the bucket.

EGGPLANT

Eggplants are spring planted. They do well here, but don’t expect to grow 2 to 3 pounders. They are usually much smaller here. Pick while their skin is still shiny purple to avoid seediness. The long Japanese eggplant is very prolific and a good choice.

Tomato hornworms will attack eggplants too, so spray the plants weekly with Bt.

GREENS (LETTUCE, KALE, ARUGULA, SWISS CHARD)

Fall is the time to plant greens in the desert southwest. There are many lettuce varieties to choose from, but I’ve always had excellent luck with Black Seeded Simpson which has frozen solid in cold winters but lived, and is the longest lasting lettuce when temperatures climb. It also easily reseeds itself if you let the plant go to seed. I haven’t had to plant lettuce in 10 years.

The only green I’ve had no luck with is spinach. If we have a mild winter, it bolts quickly or simply dies off.

PEPPERS

Sweet and hot peppers are planted in the spring. I love to pick sweet pepper varieties that ripen to a variety of colors. Look for red, orange, purple (black), and yellow.

Tomato hornworms will attack peppers too, so spray the plants weekly with Bt.

MELONS

Melons are a summer crop, and like rich soil, so compost is a must. There are very few pests that seem to bother them. Squash vine borers will sometimes attack them, but it is fairly rare.

I’ve had great success with the basic varieties of cantaloupe (no fancy hybrids for me). The Rocky Ford melon is delicious, and has green flesh. Honeydews need a very long growing season, which we have, and are harvested in late summer, early fall.

SUMMER SQUASH

Summer squash (like zucchini and scalloped squash (also known as patty pan) do extremely well here and are spring planted. The biggest pest is the squash vine borer. The telltale sign are holes drilled into the stems near the ground. You will see frass (what the borers leave behind) piled at the entrance hole. Once they have entered the plant, there really isn’t much you can do. I have read that you can split open the stem, remove the borer, and cover the incision with dirt. I have had no luck with this as the plant dies anyway. I have found the easiest and most effective thing to do is used Bt regularly.

Cucumber beetles can sometimes attack squash flowers. See the soapy water trick under “Cucumbers”.

WINTER SQUASH

Winter squash (pumpkins, butternut, acorn and others), do well, but prefer afternoon shade. Pumpkins will take over the garden, so give them lots of room. Squash vine borers also attack these, but butternut squash seem to be somewhat resistant, as the borers seem to prefer larger stemmed plants. Cucumber beetles will also attack the flowers, so see tip under “Cucumbers”.

Simple composting

Nothing will get your garden growing faster than compost. Just ½ INCH of compost can feed your entire garden for the entire summer. That’s quite a powerhouse! Not only is it healthier for your soil than using liquid fertilizers, it also encourages earth worm populations and helps the soil hold water.

Some people use compost piles, which are fine, but a challenge to keep at just the right moisture level to be successful, and in the desert heat that can be a major challenge. The pile needs to be watered and turned regularly, which can be a ton of work. Another option is a composting barrel or bin. These are small and more easily turned, but you will need to regularly empty it to keep the compost going.

I have found over the years the most efficient way is to compost right in the garden itself. This depends, of course, on if you have room. Essentially what you do is bury kitchen scraps (only produce scraps, no meat, fish, or dairy. Eggshells are okay.) in between the rows. It will compost quite quickly since it is in an ideal situation for keeping moist. No turning needed, just bury in a different spot each time. When you rototill in the spring, mix it up good and you are all set. No transporting, no turning…works great.

Growing herbs in the desert

Mexican Oregano

There are a number of herbs that do quite well in the desert, as long as you pay attention to their needs, and not kill them with kindness (overwatering and over-fertilizing).  Some are annuals (which must be replanted every year) and some are long lived biannuals or even small shrubs.  Most herbs prefer filtered shade (such in the shade of a native mesquite).

BASIL

Basil is very easy to grow from seed, and in the right conditions will reproduce on its own. There are many varieties to choose from, including cinnamon, lemon and lime flavors. Lettuce Leaf basil’s leaves are indeed the size of a lettuce leaf. I enjoy growing many different kinds. 

BORAGE

Most people have never heard of this herb. Borage is a fun annual (which can overwinter if the winter is mild) that produces tiny bluish flowers that taste like cucumbers, adding a delightful color to salads.

CILANTRO (CORIANDER)

Cilantro grows best when planted in the fall or very early spring. It will bolt (go to seed) very quickly in the heat of the summer. The seeds are known as Coriander, so don’t throw away the seeds!

OREGANO

I find that Mexican Oregano (Poliomintha maderensis ‘Lavender Spice’) doesn’t die out like the Italian version, and is a hummingbird magnet to boot. It is best started from containers. This small shrub grows in filtered shade to about 3 feet tall and wide, with multitudes of pale pink to lavender flowers for months and months. The tiny leaves have a mild oregano flavor.

ROSEMARY

Rosemary is a tough, drought tolerant shrub from the Mediterranean. There are many varieties, from trailing to large shrubs, but only Trailing Rosemary and the variety called Tuscan Blue are considered good for culinary uses. Other varieties tend to taste overly “piney”. Rosemary needs good drainage, and does not like to be overwatered.

SAGE

Culinary sage is also from the Mediterranean, and becomes a small shrub, about 2’ tall by 3’ wide. It prefers filtered shade and well-drained soil.

As with all herbs, do not apply regular fertilizer. Fertilizing reduces an herbs potency, resulting in rather bland flavor.

Yes! You can grow tomatoes in the desert

Growing tomatoes in the desert are worth the effort!  They do take a lot of TLC, but it the end results are very gratifying.

The most important thing to keep in mind, aside from good soil, is the variety.  Many species sold in nurseries do not do well in the desert.  I have had excellent success with Early Girl, Celebrity and Heatwave (for slicing tomatoes) and Viva and Roma (for paste tomatoes).  Cherry and grape tomatoes also do well here, as do yellow tomatoes.  Be sure the varieties are disease resistant (against verticillium wilt and fusarium wilt) which will be identified on the plant tag or seed packet.  These are viral soil diseases that affect mainly tomatoes.

I prefer to start my plants from seeds since my plot is quite large.  A smaller plot with room for only a dozen or so plants would not be too expensive if you bought 6 packs or 4” pots.

You aren’t the only one that will enjoy tomatoes-birds think they are just great too, so unless you have a completely caged in enclosure, you will need to cover the plants securely with bird netting.  Birds are pretty tenacious, so make sure the bottom of the netting is secured with rocks, metal pins, or in my case, metal T-posts.  Birds will check the edges regularly, so you will need to as well.

Tomatoes also prefer afternoon shade.  If your garden plot is in full sun, then you will need to provide shade by building a structure to hold shade cloth (minimum 30%) over the plants.  I use my tomato cages to support the shade cloth (placed over bird netting, of course).  Be sure to stake the cages with rebar and wire so they don’t blow over.

Soil diseases are a big problem for tomatoes, but fortunately there are few pests.  The one that will cause you the most trouble is the tomato hornworm.  Once you see one of these, you will do anything to never see another.  They can get quite large if you let them, growing to several inches long and over 1/2” wide.  They are green with ‘horns’ and blend in perfectly with the green leaves of the plants.  You will recognize their damage immediately.  Seemingly overnight there will be leaves missing on the tops of the plants, and tiny brown droppings on the lower leaves.  You can hand pick them, but I prefer to use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a non-toxic bioinsecticide the USDA has designated safe for use on organic produce.

Make sure you don’t plant your seedlings too close together, or you will have fruit that won’t ripen.  One side will be forever green while the other side turns red.  Be prepared for some varieties to get 4’ tall and 3’ wide, especially Roma, Viva, Celebrity and cherry tomatoes.  Allow at least 3’ or more between these varieties.