Trees in
nature get along quite well without pruning. In fact, they don’t care if they
are ever pruned at all.
The only
reasons trees are pruned are for people. Here are some acceptable reasons to
prune trees:
1. Clearance. We raised the canopy
of trees so we can sit, walk or park underneath. We prune limbs to keep them
off of our roof, or from coming into contact with power or phone lines.
2. Aesthetics: We shape trees so
they are more symmetrical. While we often remove dead branches, this does not
improve the health of a tree, nor make them grow better. In fact, if you want
bird life to visit your yard, leave the dead branches. Birds prefer their trees
‘un-messed’ with.
3. Mistletoe: Mistletoe often
attacks mesquites and other landscape trees. While a tree can live a very long
life with mistletoe, I recommend removing it. Because mistletoe is a parasite,
it will eventually kill the tree. And as it does so, it makes for a very ugly
and sickly-looking plant.
4. Vista Pruning: We prune trees in
order to maintain views.
How do
you know if your tree needs pruning and can you do it yourself? That depends on
the age, size, species and location of the tree. The larger the tree and the
more extensive the pruning needs are, the more likely you will need to hire a
certified arborist for a consultation. Do you really need a professional? Yes,
you do. If you hire someone without proper training, they could well ruin your
tree forever.
Regular
maintenance can often be accomplished by a homeowner. Here are some tips for
do-it-yourself tree care:
1. Newly planted trees should NOT be
pruned at planting time except to remove broken or crossing branches. All
branches on the lower part of the trunk should be left on for at least two
years. This will ensure sturdy trunk growth to help the tree stand on its own.
2. Raise the canopy by removing
small branches before you ever remove large branches. Removing a two-inch
diameter limb leaves a serious wound. Always assess each cut before removing
more. As you release the weight by cutting off branches, you may find you’ve
raised the canopy enough without the need to cut more. You want to remove the
fewest number of branches to get the job done. Always prune to point of
origin—do not “hedge” cut a tree.
3. Do NOT leave coat-hangers—those
ugly long stubs. Always cut back to the point of beginning.
4. Do NOT cut into the trunk. This
damages the cambium layer, the living part of a tree’s trunk. All cuts should
be made to stay outside of the “branch protection zone”—a ridge of bark that
surrounds where the branch is attached to the tree.
5. Never remove more than 25% of the
canopy in one year. Because older trees have a harder time with extensive
pruning, aim for no more than 10% in those cases.
6. NEVER top a tree. Topping a tree
means cutting of the central leader back to a branch that cannot assume the
role of a leader. If your tree is blocking your view, growing too tall, getting
into power lines—there are options—including selective thinning, raising the
canopy, or waiting for the tree to grow out of the view. If these are not an
option or don’t work, have it removed. Trees CANNOT be shortened without
ruining them forever.
Visit
the International Society of Arboriculture website to learn more about tree
care.
